No Locals.

My experience, the little that I've had, surfing on the ocean I notice so much tension, big egos, and aggression.  I have absolutely no interest in the "this is my turf", "you're a kook" mentality. It turns a place of beauty and serenity into a warzone. Suddenly, you're attempt of escape from daily obligations is met with just as much intensity and stress as the daily grind. 

This is why I will always be first and foremost a river surfer. River surfing has always been a place of community, understanding, and care-free fun. But with it's rapid growth people are beginning to adopt the "local" mind-set or bringing it from their ocean roots. Yes, waves are getting more crowded, there's always going to be assholes, but it's our job to not tolerate prejudice or hostility of any kind. 

The beautiful thing about surfing a river wave is it's not going anywhere. It doesn't matter what craft your on: kayak, stand up, shortboard, inflatable whale...it's all the same, we're out there to enjoy the water and the luxury of having a surfable wave at our fingertips. It is not a privilege. Yet, there are some people who feel entitled to it. And to me...that's bullshit and I think you should go somewhere where your inflated ego is tolerated. That is all. 

Photo Cred: Heather Jackson

Photo Cred: Heather Jackson